Baroque1622
The Straw Hat
Peter Paul Rubens
Curator's Eye
"Susanna Lunden wears a felt hat adorned with feathers, her hands crossed. Her direct gaze and clear complexion contrast with the azure sky behind."
A masterpiece of Rubens' maturity, this portrait of Susanna Lunden is a revolutionary study of reflected light and Flemish aristocratic elegance.
Analysis
Painted between 1622 and 1625, "The Straw Hat" depicts Susanna Lunden, the elder sister of Rubens' future second wife. This portrait belongs to a period of creative fulfillment for the artist, who dominated Europe with his flamboyant Baroque style. The work testifies to the evolution of portraiture toward psychological intimacy. Rubens moves away from rigid court styles to explore the vitality of the Antwerp bourgeoisie. The historical context is a prosperous Antwerp where Rubens fused Italian Renaissance influences with Flemish naturalism, creating a unique aesthetic of movement and flesh.
The historical explanation lies in the idealization of the female figure. Although a real portrait, Rubens infuses Susanna with characteristics of deities like Venus or Juno through rounded forms and a luminous skin tone. While there is no explicit ancient myth, the work celebrates fertile beauty and social grace, themes central to humanist philosophy. The pose, with hands crossed, subtly recalls ancient modesty (pudicitia), yet it is reinterpreted in a contemporary fashion context, transforming a private moment into an archetype of eternal elegance and status.
Technically, the painting is a triumph in managing "en plein air" light long before the Impressionists. Rubens uses layered glazes to render skin transparency. The major challenge is the shadow cast by the hat: instead of a dark area, Rubens paints a colored shadow infused with reflected light, preserving eye clarity. The contrast between the deep black hat and the intense blue sky accentuates the subject's luminosity, while quick, nervous brushstrokes for the feathers and lace bring a vibrant texture to the overall composition, showcasing Rubens' supreme brushwork.
Psychologically, the work exudes quiet confidence. Susanna's gaze establishes an immediate, intimate connection with the viewer. Rubens translates familial sweetness through the tenderness of his brush. The expression reflects the ideal of "sprezzatura"—natural, effortless elegance. The psychology of the work rests on the balance between external pageantry and human fragility perceived in the transparency of the veins in the décolletage. It is a capture of temperament as much as status, showing a woman fully aware of her place in the world and her own grace.
The most famous secret is the erroneous title: the hat is not straw but black beaver felt. The error stems from a misinterpretation of "spaans" (Spanish) as "stroo" (straw). X-rays show Rubens enlarged the wooden panel during execution to give the figure more space. Recent scans reveal he initially planned a much calmer sky; the stormy clouds were added later to enhance Baroque tension. The ring on her index finger identifies it as a marriage portrait. Its influence on Vigée Le Brun, who painted a self-portrait in response, underlines the work's historical significance.
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Despite the famous title, what material is Susanna Lunden's hat actually made of?
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